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Preserving and celebrating Mi'kmaq foodways

27 Nov 2024
Interview with the authors of Mitji: Let's Eat. Mi'kmaq Recipes from Sikniktuk

Dr. Lauren Beck, a professor of visual and material culture studies at ÕýÆ·À¶µ¼º½, and Margaret Augustine shared their incredible journey to capture not only recipes, but also the rich history and resilience of the Mi'kmaq people. 

Let's dive in — what inspired you to create this project?

Margaret and I have been knee-deep in exploring traditional foodways for years. But as we were talking to Elders, it struck us that the wealth of knowledge about Mi'kmaq cuisine and food history was often getting lost between generations. We wanted to build a bridge so that younger Mi'kmaq could reconnect with their culinary roots while also inviting settlers to understand the depth and resilience of this culture. 

What drove you to focus specifically on Mi'kmaq recipes? What do you hope to achieve with this project? 

Our cookbook is more than just a collection of recipes, it's about passing down cultural wisdom. We're focused on intergenerational knowledge transfer. Plus, it serves as a way for settler communities to gain context about Mi'kmaq history, survival, and the spirit that thrives despite centuries of colonization. 

How do these recipes reflect Mi'kmaq heritage, especially in Sikniktuk? 

The heart of Mi'kmaq food culture is living in harmony with the land. It's seasonal, reciprocal, and deeply respectful. For example, when raspberries ripen, you gather only what you need and leave the rest for the animals. It's not just about feeding people—it's about sustaining the whole ecosystem. 

Food is more than just sustenance in Mi'kmaq culture. Can you talk more about its significance? 

Absolutely. Mi'kmaq foodways are woven into the fabric of community life. They honour relationships among people and with animals, plants, and even ancestors. It's a way of saying, "We're all in this together." 

How did you go about researching and documenting these recipes? 

It was honestly a blast, despite starting during the pandemic. Margaret has been part of the Elsipogtog community for nearly two decades and had connections with Elders from Indian Island and Lennox Island First Nations. We spoke with 30 Elders who shared recipes, personal stories, and some history. And let me tell you, some of the tales were priceless! For instance, there's a hilarious story in the book about what happened when the government tried to gift each Mi'kmaq family a pig, so don't miss it! 

But there were also more serious conversations. Elders reflected on the foods they cherished after returning from Indian Residential Schools and described how they preserved ingredients without modern conveniences. Translating their memories into measured recipes was quite the journey, so we tested everything ourselves to get it just right. The photography—courtesy of Mi'kmaw photographer Patricia Bourque—captures the spirit of the four seasons beautifully. 

Did you work closely with the Mi'kmaq community on this? 

Oh yes, very much so! From the beginning, this project was rooted in collaboration with Elders and the broader community. 

Are there any challenges in converting oral traditions into a written format? 

Definitely. We recorded hours of interviews, transcribed them, and structured the book around seasonal ingredients. The result is more than a cookbook; it's an oral history archive. We donated this archive to the Elders Centre in Elsipogtog First Nation so future generations can hear their ancestors' voices. 

Were there any surprises or revelations during your research? 

What took us aback was how humour played a role in healing. Many Elders spoke about "gastrocolonialism" — where Indian agents tried to impose foreign foods on their diets. Yet, the Elders found ways to adapt, often with a wry sense of humour. Seeing how they turned those imposed challenges into something uniquely their own was heartbreaking and inspiring. 

How do you hope this book will help preserve Mi'kmaq culture? 

Honestly, the impact has already been moving. We've had a huge outpouring of support from the community, with book launches and lots of media attention. The best part? All the royalties are being donated to the Elders Centre and Margaret and I have waived our copyright in favour of Elsipogtog First Nation. 

What broader effect could this book have on the perception of Indigenous food culture across Canada? 

We hope it sparks a deeper appreciation for Indigenous culinary traditions. This isn't just a "heritage project" or a novelty. It's about honouring and amplifying the voices there, especially those pushed to the margins by colonial history. 

What's next? Will you expand this project to other areas? 

We're excited about adapting our research into the educational curriculum for kids and adults. This way, these traditions can continue to thrive in classrooms and beyond. 

How can people get involved or learn more about Mi'kmaq culinary traditions? 

Simple, buy the book! But seriously, it's more than just a cookbook. It's a gateway into a rich, resilient culture filled with laughter, love, and delicious recipes. You can purchase the book at Tidewater Books, Chapters, or on.

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